kNOwMAD thirty-something Antipodean takes flight tag:travellerspoint.com,2006-05-06:/blog/?domain=knowmad 2008-08-24T01:56:35Z knowmad img/travel-blog-feed.png Sleepless in Guadalajara tag:travellerspoint.com,2008-08-23:/blog/?domain=knowmad&thisblog_entryid=19&entryid=125369 2008-08-24T01:56:35Z 2008-08-24T01:56:35Z About 2am this morning a family of 11 campesinos arrived at Hostal de Maria looking for a place to stay. Fine. What was not fine was the fact that they all stormed into my dorm (I was the only one in the room for 6 people), fussed around trying to find a light switch to check out the room... all the while laughing, talking and crying out to each other about whether or not to stay in the hostel. Great. I'm woken ... About 2am this morning a family of 11 campesinos arrived at Hostal de Maria looking for a place to stay.

Fine.

What was not fine was the fact that they all stormed into my dorm (I was the only one in the room for 6 people), fussed around trying to find a light switch to check out the room... all the while laughing, talking and crying out to each other about whether or not to stay in the hostel. Great. I'm woken up at 2am by a gaggle of women and their male relatives when I need to get up at 6am to get the bus to Colima, south of Guadalajara.

So, I kinda figured that maybe they might notice a body in a bed and be a little more respectful and considerate. Oh no, until 3.30am they continued their intrafamily discussions by which time I was so wide awake that I had no chance in hell of ever falling asleep again. So I got up out of bed and went to chat with Manuel on the front desk who tells me he is going to be shot the next day for letting them stay there because the male campesinos all have the most obnoxious body odour, not to mention the toxic stench of their feet, and this will mean all the dorms will need to be disinfected to get rid of the smell and la dueña is going to be really angry.

So about 4am I go back to bed and sort of start to settle when all of a sudden an orchestra of trumpets erupts into a cacophony of sound: the women in my dorm (the men were transferred elsewhere) are the most horrendous snorers! I let this go on for about half an hour when I could stand it no more (they snore worse than Pater... and imagine 5 of them!) and so I make as much noise as possible to wake them all up (passive aggressive revenge) as I try to find my CD walkman which I hope (together with my Sennheiser noise cancelling headphones) will block out the raucous sound emanating from my room mates nostrils! I'm successful (in finding the walkman and waking them all up) and return to bed where for the next three hours I listen to Maná's new CD, "Amar es Combatir", over and over and over again...

Then at about 7.30am there is movement at the station and the women start to get out of bed and have the nerve to ask me did I sleep well. I almost had an apoplectic fit.

However, I have learnt a valuable lesson: the O'Neil family motto of putting others first before one's self, being considerate and careful not to offend others does not function well in México.

The next time I am in the same situation I will be just as vocal as the Mexicans and tell the lot of them to shut up and let me get some shut eye! I have learnt some really amazingly useful palabrotas recently which I think I could employ to get my message across quite effectively.

So this morning at breakfast the most popular topic of conversation amongst the regular residents here - Sophia (France), Minhi (Korea), Ivan & David (Mexico) - was "did you smell them?!

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Puerto Escondido tag:travellerspoint.com,2008-08-12:/blog/?domain=knowmad&thisblog_entryid=18&entryid=123848 2008-08-12T11:54:28Z 2008-08-12T11:35:28Z I like a quick death. And that is exactly what I am giving the mosquitoes here in Puerto Escondido. I used up my entire mini-can of Raid insect killer this morning which has lasted me a whole 5 weeks. But here in Puerto Escondido, a mini-can is not sufficient to kill those blood sucking little buggers. So I had to go down to the local abarrotes to pick up another can. But on the way down I popped into the ... 121_2103.jpg
I like a quick death. And that is exactly what I am giving the mosquitoes here in Puerto Escondido. I used up my entire mini-can of Raid insect killer this morning which has lasted me a whole 5 weeks. But here in Puerto Escondido, a mini-can is not sufficient to kill those blood sucking little buggers. So I had to go down to the local abarrotes to pick up another can. But on the way down I popped into the local pharmacy to get some hair removal cream (I knew I should have got that bikini wax done in México City!) and overheard a conversation the pharmacist was having with a customer. He was describing his symptoms: pain at the back of the eyes, body aches and fever. The pharmacist, without blinking an eye, told the poor chap he may have dengue fever (of which, the pharmacist later told me, there are currently 4 different strains of the virus in the region). The pharmacist went on to tell the poor chap that in order to ascertain exactly what was wrong with him he would need a full consultation with her husband - the local doctor - but that in the meantime he might like to take some pseudoephredine instead, because he might just have an ear infection or sinusitis and she thought that pseudoephredine would do the trick. (Thank god for Dr John Scally of the Travel Clinic in Essendon who kitted me out with a portable pharmacy before I left Australia!)

Well, you all know I do love a good drama and I haven't had enough of that lately, so my imagination went into overdrive (again!). The pharmacist sent the poor chap away with a couple of pills and said that if he didn't feel better tomorrow that he should go and visit her husband for further investigation.

So, I picked up my depilatory cream and headed straight down to the local abarrotes to get my killing machine & terminate those dengue fever carrying mosquitoes. This time I bought a big 490ml can of Raid Max. What attracted me to this can was that it states: "mata rápido y sigue matando" (the exact translation in English is "kills quickly and continues killing" but I think, from a marketing perspective, it would be better read as "fast knockdown & continual knockouts!"). So I returned to my hotel room and got to work knocking out those darned pesky mosquitoes. It was quite amazing to see their dead bodies sprinkled over the white tiled floors. And I even managed to kill a spider and a couple of ants. How those darned creatures get in here I have no idea. There is fly-wire on all the windows, but they must have a secret entrance somewhere. And this was no time to be worrying about good and bad karma: I could die from dengue fever with lots of good karma. Or I could live without dengue fever with lots of bad karma. I choose life.

Anyhow, a few minutes after performing my auto-fumigation ritual my nostrils started to go a little numb... as did my tongue. Then I started to imagine that perhaps I was also killing myself as well as those horrible bichos. Could a person die from the toxins in "mata rápido y sigue matando"? I started to drink lots of water and sat outside for a while, wondering how I would explain to the pharmacist that in my panic to rid my hotel room from dengue fever carrying mosquitoes, I had actually poisoned myself with the stuff I was using to kill them. And would she just send me away with a single pill containing pseudoephedrine and tell me to return in the morning if I weren't feeling any better? Does Mondial Travel Insurance have a health emergency hotline? Does México have a Poisons Information Centre? Argh! So I just took a multi-vitamin instead and hope that I will regain some feeling again in my nostrils and tongue. In the meantime I will Google search accidental insecticide poisoning.

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Puerto Escondido tag:travellerspoint.com,2006-10-23:/blog/?domain=knowmad&thisblog_entryid=17&entryid=28674 2006-10-23T17:18:49Z 2006-10-23T17:18:49Z Here I am at BEACH HOTEL INES on Playa Zicatela, all travelled-out and not wanting to do anything other than lie on the beach (or the bed beneath a jet fan). It's not particularly hot here, but the humidity is killing me. My body has puffed up like a puffer fish, although the heat has taken away my appetite. After about 6 weeks of travelling solo I'm all solo-travelled-out... and I'm tired of moving. I'm just going to ... Here I am at BEACH HOTEL INES on Playa Zicatela, all travelled-out and not wanting to do anything other than lie on the beach (or the bed beneath a jet fan). It's not particularly hot here, but the humidity is killing me. My body has puffed up like a puffer fish, although the heat has taken away my appetite.

After about 6 weeks of travelling solo I'm all solo-travelled-out... and I'm tired of moving. I'm just going to hang around here for about a week until I decide where to go next. Or perhaps I should take the advice of my eldest bro who said that when he and his girlfriend (now wife) were in Costa Rica and were getting sick of travelling they just booked themselves into a Best Western and watched Costa Rican PRICE IS RIGHT for a few days and then they felt better!

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Guadalajara tag:travellerspoint.com,2006-09-28:/blog/?domain=knowmad&thisblog_entryid=16&entryid=25598 2006-09-28T15:40:59Z 2006-09-28T15:40:59Z Arrived here on the evening of 26 September from Chihuahua (flew down for MX$1300). Staying at Hostal de Maria on Nueva Galicia 924 (entre Calle Colón y General Rio Seco) in Barrio de las 9 Esquinas. Nice hostel. Poor ventilation in my dorm, but will manage to live with it. MX$150 per night. Free internet access. Located in Centro Historico. ... Arrived here on the evening of 26 September from Chihuahua (flew down for MX$1300). Staying at Hostal de Maria on Nueva Galicia 924 (entre Calle Colón y General Rio Seco) in Barrio de las 9 Esquinas. Nice hostel. Poor ventilation in my dorm, but will manage to live with it. MX$150 per night. Free internet access. Located in Centro Historico.

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Chihuahua: Accommodation tag:travellerspoint.com,2006-09-18:/blog/?domain=knowmad&thisblog_entryid=15&entryid=24462 2006-09-18T17:35:52Z 2006-09-18T17:35:52Z I stayed here for two nights. MX$1100 per night. Which is too expensive for the quality of the hotel (and two expensive for a mochilera like me!). The shower was terrible (like a fine mist that went everywhere except on me) and the bathroom needs a bit of an overhaul. However, the bed was fantastic as was the airconditioning. There is also an excellent business centre and although I'm no longer staying in the hotel, the concierge ... I stayed here for two nights. MX$1100 per night. Which is too expensive for the quality of the hotel (and two expensive for a mochilera like me!). The shower was terrible (like a fine mist that went everywhere except on me) and the bathroom needs a bit of an overhaul.

However, the bed was fantastic as was the airconditioning. There is also an excellent business centre and although I'm no longer staying in the hotel, the concierge has permitted me to use it to check my emails & write this post! If you need to do any online banking (which I needed to do today) this is probably the most secure place in Chihuahua to do it.

There is a restaurant downstairs called Degá where you can get a discounted buffet breakfast. They also do lunch and dinner, but I only ever ate a very light breakfast there.

This hotel is primarily for business people. I met Mexican rancheros from El Paso, businessmen and - the piece de resistance - a couple of Mexican Policía Federal Preventiva who were escorting the relics of a French saint around Mexico. Long story, but you can read about it on my other blog, here.

I moved out of here on Sunday morning to Casa Chihuahua which is a backpacker hostel, but has a nicer atmosphere than San Francisco Quality Inn - oh, and the showers at Casa Chihuahua are fantastic!

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Amtrak: LAX to El Paso, Texas tag:travellerspoint.com,2006-09-18:/blog/?domain=knowmad&thisblog_entryid=14&entryid=24457 2006-09-18T17:25:04Z 2006-09-18T17:25:04Z I definitely recommend going with Amtrak to El Paso from Los Angeles. Trains depart from Union Station in LA. You can get a FlyAway bus for US$3 from the Airport to the Station. Note that the train doesn't run to El Paso on Thursdays. Make sure you book your ticket at least the day before. I did this in person at Union Station. When I bought my ticket I was told that I couldn't have any ... I definitely recommend going with Amtrak to El Paso from Los Angeles. Trains depart from Union Station in LA. You can get a FlyAway bus for US$3 from the Airport to the Station. Note that the train doesn't run to El Paso on Thursdays. Make sure you book your ticket at least the day before. I did this in person at Union Station.

When I bought my ticket I was told that I couldn't have any liquids or electronic equipment in my checked luggage which proved to be a real problem for me as I have a lot of electronic equipment for my camera/iPod/CD player/Vosonic X drive. So I had to buy a separate bag and transfer all this stuff over and carry it on the train with me. However, when I arrived at the station on the day of departure (Wednesday 13 September) and after I had checked in my luggage and boarded the train I realised that no one does this! Very few check in their luggage and those that do don't take notice of the no liquids/electronic equipment rule.

There were very few people on the train so most of us had two seats to ourselves. The food on the train is pretty horrible. Pizzas & fatty fried food. I would recommend taking along your own food.

The train leaves at 2.30pm and is supposed to arrive in El Paso at 8.30am the following day, but we had a delay of approximately 4-5 hours due to a freight train in front of us!

The Number 2 train is cheaper than the Number 1 train. There is a difference of nearly US$100. I don't know why, but the Number 2 train is really comfortable...almost like first class in an airline

The scenery is absolutely magnificent and a really nice way to travel from LA to El Paso. It also gave me an opportunity to meet some interesting people on the train - especially a couple of elderly sisters from New Mexico who were sitting behind me whose conversations with each other were hilarious. Particularly when they were talking about me: "Oh, I think she's going to the Military Base in El Paso... she's probably a nurse or a teacher...oh she's so cute... oh look, she's wearing socks to keep her feet warm..." Hilarious!

Upon arrival at El Paso train station you need to take a taxi to get anywhere... but you need to ring the taxi company to make a booking.

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Chihuahua: Accommodation tag:travellerspoint.com,2006-09-18:/blog/?domain=knowmad&thisblog_entryid=13&entryid=24452 2006-10-23T15:35:33Z 2006-09-18T16:44:17Z Just a brief note to give some advice about accommodation in Chihuahua. On Calle 22a & Mendez, opposite Chepe (the ferrocarril station that takes you on La Barranca del Cobre/Copper Canyon train ride to Creel & beyond to Los Mochis) is an excellent hostel called Casa Chihuahua. It's four months old and managed by a Mexican-French couple - Loly & Philippe) and their two gorgeous children who are multilingual! (French, Spanish & English and Loly also speaks Italian). It is ... Just a brief note to give some advice about accommodation in Chihuahua.

On Calle 22a & Mendez, opposite Chepe (the ferrocarril station that takes you on La Barranca del Cobre/Copper Canyon train ride to Creel & beyond to Los Mochis) is an excellent hostel called Casa Chihuahua. It's four months old and managed by a Mexican-French couple - Loly & Philippe) and their two gorgeous children who are multilingual! (French, Spanish & English and Loly also speaks Italian). It is quiet, extremely clean and the beds are very comfortable.

Cost is MX$120.00 (120 Mexican pesos) a night in a shared dorm or MX$240 in a twin room. Showers and toilets are of a high standard. Towels and bedding provided.

There is a large Maytag washer & dryer and you can do your laundry there for $MX50.00. Breakfast is also available for $MX20.00. However, Philippe & Loly have many recommendations for breakfast, lunch & dinner. There is a fantastic little place called "O'Camps" which do great tacos de carne asada.

Loly & Philippe have an extremely wide range of information on things to do and see in Chihuahua and can provide recommendations for accommodation elsewhere in México.

The hostel is within walking distance of el centro historico but on a hot day you may want to take a bus - although I have yet to do this, preferring to walk around town.

Oddly enough this place doesn't get a mention in any of the travel guides (Lonely Planet etc.) - although it is the best hostel in the region!

I give this hostel 5 stars!

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LAX Arrival tag:travellerspoint.com,2006-09-15:/blog/?domain=knowmad&thisblog_entryid=12&entryid=24116 2006-09-16T00:17:04Z 2006-09-16T00:17:04Z I arrived in LAX today, following a long flight from Melbourne, via Auckland. The added US-government requested security turned into an interesting spectacle. At Tullamarine Airport we were requested to ensure that we had no liquids, creams or gels in our carry on baggage, however our carry on luggage was never inspected - so I was without lipbalm for no reason at all! I was however, thrown into a "Border Security"-style scene whereby I was searched for explosives using ... I arrived in LAX today, following a long flight from Melbourne, via Auckland.

The added US-government requested security turned into an interesting spectacle. At Tullamarine Airport we were requested to ensure that we had no liquids, creams or gels in our carry on baggage, however our carry on luggage was never inspected - so I was without lipbalm for no reason at all! I was however, thrown into a "Border Security"-style scene whereby I was searched for explosives using that same contraption that the Border Security folk use to test for narcotics!

The flight to NZ was interesting as I was seated next to a Melbourne lass on her way to Chile for a five week trip. It was great to have some good conversaton for the short flight.

At Auckland security was stepped up and our carry on luggage was searched when we re-boarded the plane. My empty drink bottle was confiscated, as was my half empty (half full) drink bottle. The rest of the flight to LAX was okay - even if I didn't manage to get any sleep.

I arrived in LAX on the same day I departed, although 15 minutes earlier (time difference!). There was about an hour and a half wait to get through US Customs which was more painful than the long flight from Auckland! When I finally was called to be finger printed and photographed the Customs Officer was intrigued that I was going to México alone for two months!

I made it through customs without a drama and caught a courtesy shuttle bus to the Crowne Plaza Hotel at 5985 Century Boulevard, which is very near the airport.

Rooms at the Crowne Plaza start at US$189 including breakfast. The hotel is close to the bus terminal where you can get a ride Down Town. There is also a "Flyaway" bus service from the airport to Union station. Cost is US$3.00.

If I were wanting to see the sites in LA I wouldn't stay at this hotel as getting Downtown is not so simple without a car and the bus journey with the locals takes about 45 minutes (cost is US$1.75). However, if you need a hotel just for one night in between connections, I highly recommend the Crowne Plaza.

The food is excellent at the Crowne Plaza if you are interested in stereotypical rich-carbohydrate-fat-loaded American food. There's no bircher muesli here! However, the buffet breakfast is good as it has a whole array of fresh fruit and even porridge! Alternatively you can do what I saw most of the guests doing - loading up plate after plate of crispy fried bacon, sausages, greasy scrambled eggs and something that looked like a potato tortilla. The dinner menu is virtually the same type of food - rich & heavy, but excellent. I simply couldn't stomach such heavy food after the long Qantas flight. In addition, the heat and humidity removed my appetite fairly quickly.

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México Lindo: itinerario tag:travellerspoint.com,2006-09-15:/blog/?domain=knowmad&thisblog_entryid=11&entryid=24114 2006-09-15T23:39:38Z 2006-09-15T23:39:38Z The final itinerary for my Mexican Pilgrimage is as follows: 12 September - arrive LAX 13 September - LAX to El Paso, Texas via Amtrak 14 September - arrive El Paso, Texas 15 September - El Paso, Texas to Chihuahua, México 16 September - Chihuahua 17 September - Chihuahua 18 September - Chihuahua to Creel (Copper Canyon train) 19 September - Creel to Batopilas (Copper Canyon train) 20 September - Batopilas to Creel 21 September - Creel to Los Mochis (Copper Canyon train) 22 September - Los Mochis to Mazatlán 23 ... The final itinerary for my Mexican Pilgrimage is as follows:

12 September - arrive LAX
13 September - LAX to El Paso, Texas via Amtrak
14 September - arrive El Paso, Texas
15 September - El Paso, Texas to Chihuahua, México
16 September - Chihuahua
17 September - Chihuahua
18 September - Chihuahua to Creel (Copper Canyon train)
19 September - Creel to Batopilas (Copper Canyon train)
20 September - Batopilas to Creel
21 September - Creel to Los Mochis (Copper Canyon train)
22 September - Los Mochis to Mazatlán
23 September - Mazatlán
24 September - Mazatlán
25 September - Mazatlán to San Blas
26 September - San Blas
27 September - San Blas
28 September - San Blas to Guadalajara
29 September - Guadalajara
30 September - Guadalajara
1 October - Guadalajara
2 October - Guadalajara to Zacatecas
3 October - Zacatecas
4 October - Zacatecas
5 October - Zacatecas to San Luis Potosí
6 October - San Luis Potosí
7 October - San Luis Potosí
8 October - San Luis Potosí to Guanajuato
9 October - Guanajuato
10 October - Guanajuato
11 October - Guanajuato to San Miguel de Allende
12 October - San Miguel de Allende
13 October - San Miguel de Allende
14 October - San Miguel de Allende
15 October - San Miguel de Allende to Vera Cruz
16 October - Vera Cruz
17 October - Vera Cruz
18 October - Vera Cruz to Puebla
19 October - Puebla
20 October - Puebla to Oaxaca
21 October - Oaxaca
22 October - Oaxaca to San Cristobal de las Casas
23 October - San Cristobal de las Casas
24 October - San Cristobal de las Casas
25 October - San Cristobal de las Casas to Ocosingo
26 October - Ocosingo to Laguna Miramar
27 October - Pyramids - destination yet to be decided
28 October - Pyramids - destination yet to be decided
29 October - San Cristobal de las Casas
30 October - Taxco
31 October - Taxco
1 November - México City
2 November - México City
3 November - México City
4 November - Depart México City & arrive LAX
5 November - LAX
6 November - Depart LAX for Melbourne
7 November - lose a day flying
8 November - lose another day flying
9 November - Arrive home in Melbourne

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Travel Preparation: Travel Gear tag:travellerspoint.com,2006-09-09:/blog/?domain=knowmad&thisblog_entryid=10&entryid=23259 2006-09-09T08:04:51Z 2006-09-09T08:04:51Z With only two full days to go before I fly out to LA to start my México trip I have just discovered the greatest online travel gear retailer on the planet. Even better is they are located in my home state of Victoria in Kilcunda! Tim & Janine run a tight ship at Travelgear.com.au and have been super helpful beyond all my expectations of customer service! I have been attempting (unsuccessfully) to find a 50w step up transformer and adaptor for ... With only two full days to go before I fly out to LA to start my México trip I have just discovered the greatest online travel gear retailer on the planet. Even better is they are located in my home state of Victoria in Kilcunda!

Tim & Janine run a tight ship at Travelgear.com.au and have been super helpful beyond all my expectations of customer service!

I have been attempting (unsuccessfully) to find a 50w step up transformer and adaptor for use in México. The transformer has been near on impossible to find and although I have found adaptors for use in México, they only accommodate 2 pronged Australian electrical appliances, not three pronged.

Anyhow, having found Travelgear.com.au by Googling, I contacted them and spoke with Janine & Tim. Tim advised me that he can supply me with the required multi-use adaptor (for use with 3 pronged Australian electrical appliances), but has no transformers left in stock. However, he gave me the contact details of his transformer supplier who is located in Beaconsfield - I promptly called him and will pop over to see him on Monday to pick up my long sought after 50w step up transformer! Coincidentally enough, Janine at Travelgear.com.au will be in Frankston (my home town) on Monday and so will deliver my multi-use adaptor in person!

So, if you are on the hunt for some obscure travel equipment, I highly recommend Travelgear.com.au.

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Revised Itinerary tag:travellerspoint.com,2006-09-03:/blog/?domain=knowmad&thisblog_entryid=9&entryid=22761 2006-09-04T05:37:49Z 2006-09-04T05:37:17Z Not only will the recent alteration to my itinerary prevent me from flying with American Airlines for an additional eight hours (something I was dreading!), the removal of the LAX-DFW-MEX-DFW-LAX legs of my earlier itinerary will also provide me with the ability to extend my Latin American trip should the opportunity present itself. I have booked my trip using my Qantas Frequent Flyer points (yes, almost a decade of points accumulation has now given me an opportunity to fly ... Not only will the recent alteration to my itinerary prevent me from flying with American Airlines for an additional eight hours (something I was dreading!), the removal of the LAX-DFW-MEX-DFW-LAX legs of my earlier itinerary will also provide me with the ability to extend my Latin American trip should the opportunity present itself. I have booked my trip using my Qantas Frequent Flyer points (yes, almost a decade of points accumulation has now given me an opportunity to fly for free!) and travelling on a frequent flyer booked ticket has severe restrictions attached to it.

After making the original booking using one's frequent flyer points one is permitted to make changes to the dates of travel at a cost of 5,000 points (MEL-LAX-MEL has cost me 96,000 points) - depending, of course, on the availability of seats earmarked for frequent flyer points bookings. Prior to commencing travel it is possible to change the route of travel, although this is a little more difficult (and costs 5,000 points) due to the limited availability of seats earmarked for frequent flyer travel.

However, after travel on a frequent flyer issued ticket has commenced it becomes even more difficult to alter the date/s of travel and impossible (i.e. not permitted at all) to alter the route/s. Initially I was flying MEL-LAX-DFW-MEX-DFW-LAX-MEL: a route that was always going to prove to be impossible to request a date change. However, by removing the LAX-DFW-MEX-DFW-LAX leg of the journey if I want/need to change the date/s of my return to Australia this will prove to be much easier - as I will only need to change the date for one flight leg, as opposed to three.

The current plan is that I will overland it either by bus from LAX to Tijuana or from LAX to El Paso via Amtrak where I can hop over the border to Ciudad Juárez and hot foot it out of there to Chihuauhua.

Places of interest currently on my draft travel agenda are:

    Cañón del Cobre, San Blas, Guanajuato, San Miguel de Allende, Guadalajara (home of Maná), Taxco, Cuernavaca, Oaxaca, San Cristobal de las Casas, Palenque, Campeche, Mérida, Uxmal, Chichén Itza, Tulum, Calakmul, Agua Azul, Laguna Miramar and of course México City and Teotihuacán.

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Travel preparation: Health - Vaccinations - Part 3 (Final) tag:travellerspoint.com,2006-09-03:/blog/?domain=knowmad&thisblog_entryid=8&entryid=22756 2006-09-04T05:19:32Z 2006-09-04T05:19:32Z I visited Dr Scally again on Saturday for my final Rabies, Hep A and Hep B shots. Everything was fine until 4pm that afternoon when I fell ill. Really ill. I developed a raging fever which lasted for 24 hours and which no amount of paracetamol could reduce. Accompanying my feverish and delirious state were a series of bizarre and frightening nightmares concerning my impending overseas trip which have lead me to completely change my México itinerary. ... I visited Dr Scally again on Saturday for my final Rabies, Hep A and Hep B shots.

Everything was fine until 4pm that afternoon when I fell ill. Really ill. I developed a raging fever which lasted for 24 hours and which no amount of paracetamol could reduce. Accompanying my feverish and delirious state were a series of bizarre and frightening nightmares concerning my impending overseas trip which have lead me to completely change my México itinerary. I have cancelled all internal US travel and will now make my way overland from Los Angeles into México.

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Travel Preparation: Equipment tag:travellerspoint.com,2006-08-28:/blog/?domain=knowmad&thisblog_entryid=7&entryid=22028 2006-08-29T03:13:03Z 2006-08-29T02:03:56Z Yesterday I spent most of the day acquiring "equipment" for my 12 September departure. I settled on a pair of Merrell Pulse Trail shoes which I picked up from Mitchell's Adventure & Outdoor Sports store for $199.95. I behaved extravagantly and also picked up a pair of Merrell Nerve shoes for $179.95. Other items of clothing I purchased include three pairs of light coloured pants (each around $39 - one pair converts to shorts), four tee shirts ($20 each), a Feathertop ... Yesterday I spent most of the day acquiring "equipment" for my 12 September departure.

I settled on a pair of Merrell Pulse Trail shoes which I picked up from Mitchell's Adventure & Outdoor Sports store for $199.95. I behaved extravagantly and also picked up a pair of Merrell Nerve shoes for $179.95.

Other items of clothing I purchased include three pairs of light coloured pants (each around $39 - one pair converts to shorts), four tee shirts ($20 each), a Feathertop rain/wind proof jacket (purchased on sale for $70), underwear and socks (specially designed to 'wick' the sweat away). In addition, I picked up a Maglite/Victorinox utility pack (i.e. small torch and swiss army knife) as well as some heavy duty mosquito repellant and sunscreen.

The last item I need to purchase is a sleeping bag which I can also purchase from url=http://www.mitchellsadventure.com.au]Mitchell's Adventure & Outdoor Sports store[/url].

Mitchell's are significantly cheaper than the bigger city stores such as Paddy Pallin and Kathmandu, however the range of products are limited and if you are seeking something in particular you will most probably need to request that it be specially ordered for you.

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Travel preparation: Health - Vaccinations - Part 2 tag:travellerspoint.com,2006-08-12:/blog/?domain=knowmad&thisblog_entryid=6&entryid=19827 2006-08-12T11:33:52Z 2006-08-12T11:33:52Z I visited Dr John Scally again today who jabbed me for typhoid and my second rabies shot. We also discussed the best drug for malaria prevention and settled on Chloroquin. However, he pointed out that if I end up in Colombia and Ecuador I should get hold of Malarone as the Chloroquin won't be of any use if I visit malaria areas in those countries. I have to go back to Dr Scally again on 2 September for the ... I visited Dr John Scally again today who jabbed me for typhoid and my second rabies shot. We also discussed the best drug for malaria prevention and settled on Chloroquin. However, he pointed out that if I end up in Colombia and Ecuador I should get hold of Malarone as the Chloroquin won't be of any use if I visit malaria areas in those countries.

I have to go back to Dr Scally again on 2 September for the final rabies and Hep A/Hep B shots.

Today's expenses were $42.00 for the typhoid shot, another $95.00 for the second rabies shot and $15.00 for 100 Choroquin tablets. And $81.70 for the consultation fee. Medicare will reimburse me about $50-$60 for this.

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Travel preparation: Health - Vaccinations tag:travellerspoint.com,2006-08-09:/blog/?domain=knowmad&thisblog_entryid=5&entryid=19549 2006-08-12T11:34:18Z 2006-08-09T13:57:30Z Stage One vaccinations commenced on Saturday. I thought it was going to be a fifteen minute job, but Dr John Scally (also a well seasoned traveller) takes his WHO job very seriously. I had a one hour consultation with him during which time he took out his fine toothed comb and researched every Spanish-speaking American country I may possibly visit. To be honest, I thought I'd just walk in and get a jab for yellow fever and ... Stage One vaccinations commenced on Saturday. I thought it was going to be a fifteen minute job, but Dr John Scally (also a well seasoned traveller) takes his WHO job very seriously.

I had a one hour consultation with him during which time he took out his fine toothed comb and researched every Spanish-speaking American country I may possibly visit. To be honest, I thought I'd just walk in and get a jab for yellow fever and then walk out again. But it wasn't so simple.

Dr Scally gave me detailed information about how, where and from what I could contract a nasty series of diseases like Hepatitis A, Hepatitis B (both scary), yellow fever (pretty scary), and rabies (very, very scary). He also talked about dengue fever and typhoid... but his description of rabies has so overshadowed everything else that I can't remember anything else he said!

So one hour later I walked out of his surgery having received vaccinations for Hep A and B, yellow fever and rabies. But it doesn't stop there. This coming Saturday I need to return to his clinic to receive the second shot for Hep A and B, the second (of three) shots for rabies, and one for typhoid. During this upcoming session he will also discuss malaria prophylactics and whether or not I should take preventive measures against dengue fever. Oh, and then three weeks later I need to return again for the final rabies shot.

I must admit that a few years ago I developed a slight fear of needles as a result of passing out on the red carpet (literally) at Melbourne Town Hall after being innoculated for MMR (Measles, Mumps and Rubella). So I was feeling a little nervous as Dr Scally waved his needles around. To combat the feeling of faintness I focussed my eyes on his framed Camino de Santiago memorabilia, a few Hail Mary's and called upon Mary McKillop to prevent me from passing out. Dr Scally has a pretty gentle touch so I didn't really feel anything at all... until a few days later when I felt that my arms had gone through a few rounds with Kostya Tszyu.

So far, this exercise in innoculation has set me back AU$310.90: $111.90 for the hour long consultation, $95 for the first rabies shot, $45 for yellow fever and $59 for the combined Hep A and Hep B shot. Of all these vaccinations, the only one that is absolutely compulsory (if travelling to Colombia and Ecuador) is yellow fever. Australia is home to the same mosquito that carries the yellow fever virus, hence Australian Quarantine's severe warnings about ensuring all travellers to yellow fever areas are duly vaccinated and obtain a "yellow fever" card (which, also happens to be yellow).

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Travel preparation: Health & Visa Checks tag:travellerspoint.com,2006-08-01:/blog/?domain=knowmad&thisblog_entryid=4&entryid=18657 2006-08-01T16:11:03Z 2006-08-01T16:11:03Z Health Checks [list]Vaccinations Medical check up Prescription medicine Dental check up [/list] The Travel Clinic Australia is an excellent resource for all matters pertaining to one's health overseas! I'm off to see Dr John Scally's Travel Clinic at 278 Buckley St, Essendon on Saturday morning to get the various vaccinations that are recommended for travel to México. Last year I went to Brazil and didn't get a yellow fever vaccination. This wasn't so much of a drama in Brazil, but u ... Health Checks

    Vaccinations
    Medical check up
    Prescription medicine
    Dental check up

The Travel Clinic Australia is an excellent resource for all matters pertaining to one's health overseas!

I'm off to see Dr John Scally's Travel Clinic at 278 Buckley St, Essendon on Saturday morning to get the various vaccinations that are recommended for travel to México. Last year I went to Brazil and didn't get a yellow fever vaccination. This wasn't so much of a drama in Brazil, but upon re-entering Australia, the alarm bells were signalled when Quarantine officials in Customs discovered I didn't hold the compulsory paperwork that would indicate I had been vaccinated against yellow fever! I was detained for some time as the geographically-challenged Quarantine officials sternly asked me to point out exactly where in Brazil I visited... as they spread out a map of Colombia in front of me! To cut a long story short, they let me go but gave me strict instructions to watch out for the symptoms of late onset yellow fever!

As I am only (officially) travelling to México, there are no shots that are compulsory, but I will vaccinate myself against yellow fever as I may get an opportunity to go to Colombia and Australian Quarantine require all Australians travelling to Colombia to be innoculated against this disease.

Travel Clinic Australia has an excellent page here which provides a list of vaccines required per country.

I've also booked in to see my dentist tomorrow - however, I fear that a little bit of work may be required. But better to have it attended to here in Australia than being overseas with a toothache.

Monday I have my full medical check up and will take the opportunity to refill my prescription drugs for asthma: ventolin and seretide. Perhaps too I might ask for some prescriptions for general antibiotics to take away with me - just in case I get hit with another chest infection (three this year already!).

Visa checks

Visa Link is an excellent source of information on visa requirements. Their website states that no visa is required for Australian passport holders travelling to México for less than 90 days - although a "tourist card" must be obtained, and stamped, upon entering the country. Failure to do so will cause problems down the track.

Central American countries and Colombia also do not require Australian passport holders to have a visa. Generally the length of the visa will be determined at the point of entry to the relevant country.

Ecuador also does not require Australian passport holders to obtain a visa prior to entering the country, although tourist visits are restricted to 90 days only.

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Travel preparation: Equipment tag:travellerspoint.com,2006-07-29:/blog/?domain=knowmad&thisblog_entryid=3&entryid=18411 2006-08-29T03:06:54Z 2006-07-30T20:28:24Z The advice given by the One Bag website states that "there are two kinds of luggage: carry on and lost." As much as I would love to adhere to this advice, with the new changes to the airline carry on baggage allowances, it is going to be impossible for me to pack everything I need into a tiny cabin bag. Luggage After much research on luggage I decided on the Osprey Meridian 28 (75L, inclu ... The advice given by the One Bag website states that "there are two kinds of luggage: carry on and lost."

As much as I would love to adhere to this advice, with the new changes to the airline carry on baggage allowances, it is going to be impossible for me to pack everything I need into a tiny cabin bag.

Luggage

After much research on luggage I decided on the Osprey Meridian 28 (75L, including zip-off day pack) - a travel pack with sturdy wheels. I purchased it for AU$399.00 from Paddy Pallin in Little Bourke Street, Melbourne.

It's a fairly compact pack, sits very comfortably on my back (I have a slight "sway back" and other packs tended to cause me some discomfort) and the wheels are an added bonus. It sits firmly on my hips so that I am not carrying the weight of the pack on my shoulders.

It's designed for simple backpacker travel, i.e. just to get you from the bus stop/airport to the hostel/hotel. It's definitely not designed for hiking.

I am planning on filling it to a maximum of 10kg

What to pack?

One Bag have a great list of "what to pack on a trip of any length". However, I'm not going to take everything they suggest. My list is as follows:

1 jacket (wind/rain proof Feathertop $70 - on sale)
1 jumper/pull over
3 pants (zip-off to convert to shorts)
4 tee-shirts
1 long sleeved tee-shirt
1 swimsuit
4 pairs of socks
4 pairs of underwear
walking shoes (Merrell Pulse and/or Merrell Nerve)
havaianas

cutlery (including sharp knife)
plate
cup
small water bottle
travel pillow
sleeping bag
cotton sleeping sheet (for use inside sleeping bag)

toothbrush, paste & floss
deodorant
shampoo & conditioner*
liquid soap*
face wash*
face moisturiser*
body moisturiser
*all transferred into small bottles
small towel
facecloth
comb
hairbrush

small flashlight (Maglite)
1 power cord adaptor and powerboard
digital camera with wide angle & telephoto lenses
iPod & Sennheiser noise-cancelling headphones (can't fly without them!)
medication: antibiotics, malaria tablets (Chloroquin), Seretide & Ventolin (for my asthma), immodium (for the inevitable bout of diarrhoea), paracetamol, water purifying tablets

toilet paper & antibacterial wipes
insect repellant (gotta go for Aerogard tropical!)
sunscreen (30+SPF)
lip balm (Carmex - there is none better!)
eye mask & ear plugs

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Ticket booked tag:travellerspoint.com,2006-07-29:/blog/?domain=knowmad&thisblog_entryid=2&entryid=18400 2006-08-01T11:19:47Z 2006-07-30T20:11:15Z I finally made up my mind where to go on my next trip: México. I booked my ticket today and I depart Melbourne on 12 September, arriving in Ciudad de México on the same day a little before midnight. I've spent the past two months researching itineraries, equipment and budgetary requirements etc. All to no avail. No one can tell you what to do, where/when to go, and what to take. And no one has the definitive answer ... I finally made up my mind where to go on my next trip: México.

I booked my ticket today and I depart Melbourne on 12 September, arriving in Ciudad de México on the same day a little before midnight.

I've spent the past two months researching itineraries, equipment and budgetary requirements etc. All to no avail. No one can tell you what to do, where/when to go, and what to take. And no one has the definitive answer to that oft repeated question "how much money do I need?" You have to work it all out for yourself. And this, I believe, is the most exciting aspect of pre-travel preparation.

Although I have six weeks before I depart, I've decided that I will start to keep a record here of my pre-travel preparation regime. In the absence of a definitive guide on what to take, where to go etc., potential travellers may find useful some of the information contained in subsequent posts.

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Strategic Planning tag:travellerspoint.com,2006-05-06:/blog/?domain=knowmad&thisblog_entryid=1&entryid=10978 2006-05-06T07:17:13Z 2006-05-06T07:17:13Z I am currently in the process of planning my next trip. Where will I go, when and how? This is a really difficult question. Initially I had simply planned to go to México in December and take the Southern Migration trip with the Green Tortoise mob. But then I started thinking that if I were in the area why not go back to the north-east of Brazil (I was there in November last year)... and why ... I am currently in the process of planning my next trip.

Where will I go, when and how?

This is a really difficult question. Initially I had simply planned to go to México in December and take the Southern Migration trip with the Green Tortoise mob. But then I started thinking that if I were in the area why not go back to the north-east of Brazil (I was there in November last year)... and why not just overland it through Central America to Colombia, Venezuela...

And so my plans started to snowball.

Then, when I mentioned my desire to travel again to my Ecuadorian friend, Alejandro, who is currently living in Spain he suggested I visit him on the Costa Brava.

So at this point the current idea is to head off to the Costa Brava and catch up with Alejandro and then cycle along El Camino de Santiago, head down to Lisbon and fly out to Salvador de Bahia in north-east Brazil... make my way through the north of South America...

Well - the logistics are giving me a head ache. However, I have set myself a departure date of 1 September so have plenty of time to work out the final travel plan (which we all know constantly changes!).

Right now I'm just doing a lot of research and seeking advice from as many travel resources as I can find.

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